The real traditional English trifle

Before we get down to basics, when I surfed the net for trifle recipes I was intrigued to note that, having a sneaking suspicion that other nations laid claim to Britain’s Best Dessert, when I typed in “Italian Trifle” I found recipe after recipe for “Zuppa Inglese.”

My knowledge of Italian is limited to cooking terms, “ciao,” “arrividerci” and what one can’t help gleaning from TV shows featuring Italian Americans; however, doesn’t it seem to you, too, that whatever “Zuppa” may be, “Inglese” sounds like “English” thus proving that Trifle is indeed English.

Well, that’s my theory and I’m sticking to it. The chefs and cooks of the US do the most appalling things to trifle, beginning with Angel Cake and ending with Yam Trifle — at which the mind boggles...

Back to basics now, and the ingredients you need to make a Traditional English Trifle, which are:

One Madeira Cake (made, you remember with no less than 4 eggs)

10 fluid ozs of full cream milk

750 ml (25 fl ozs, 3 1/4 cups US) double cream

6 large egg yolks

1 rounded tablespoon cornflour (US cornstarch)

4 tablespoons caster sugar

4 tablespoons of the very best raspberry jam

6 tablespoons of Oloroso (sweet) sherry (or Madeira wine)

METHOD:

Make the Madeira cake (see this column, Monday, April 24, Section B page 3), and store as directed.

Make the custard by putting the milk and 300 ml — a little less than half — of the double cream in a non-stick pan and bring this mixture to the boil.

While that mixture is heating, in a bowl beat together the egg yolks, cornflour and sugar, then gradually (don’t rush it) whisk in the hot milk and cream.

Put the mixture back in the pan you used to heat the milk and cream, turn the gas (or electricity) down to LOW and cook, stirring constantly for about ten minutes, or until the mixture has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. (I’d be inclined to put the pan over boiling water — to cook it in “bain marie” since the original directions for this recipe advise you to take care not to let the mixture boil as it will curdle — and what a waste that would be!)

Transfer the custard to a bowl and put in the fridge to cool.

To Assemble the Trifle:

Cut the Madeira cake into slices about a half-inch thick and arrange a layer over the bottom of a cut glass (or pretty plain glass) bowl.

Spread the layer of cake with two tablespoons of the raspberry jam.

Arrange a second layer of sliced Madeira cake on top of the first and spread the rest of the raspberry jam on the cake slices.

Sprinkle the sweet sherry (or Madeira wine) over the slices of Madeira cake.

Pour the cooled custard over the cake, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the fridge to chill for at least three hours.

Whip the rest of the cream into soft peaks.

Take the plastic wrap off the trifle, spoon over the cream and return the trifle to the fridge until you are ready to serve.

If you like, you can decorate the whipped cream topping with strawberries or grapes or slices of Kiwi fruit.

Or, for the kids, chocolate of coloured sprinkles.

Bon appetit!