CARING FOR CHEMICALLY TREATED HAIR

For that reason, hair that is chemically treated should be managed similarly to damaged hair so that the integrity of your hair is maintained, not degraded.

Relaxers Relaxers contain chemicals that permanently break the disul_ de bonds in the hair by removing one atom of sulfur and forming a lanthionine bond. These chemicals are extremely alkaline (pH greater than ten) and require neutralisation once the process is done.

Perms Perming the hair also involves breaking disul_ de bonds and reforming them (disul_ de bonds) when the hair is set with perm rods, locking in the curls formed by the perm rods.

Colour Permanent (oxidative) hair colouring involves the use of chemicals like ammonia hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide to bleach/oxidise the melanin in your hair and ammonia hydroxide to “swell” or “lift” the cuticle to allow the dye to penetrate the hair shaft. The combination results in an overall lightening of your hair colour.

Chemical processes often damage the cuticle and affect how efficiently your hair absorbs and maintains moisture. A lack of moisture can lead to frizzy, dry, brittle hair and a _ aky, irritated scalp. Other risks include damaged spots along the hair shaft due to damaged protein bonds.

(Hair is composed mainly of protein, keratin)

Cleanse Gently cleansing your hair with a sulfate free shampoo cleans and removes product buildup without excessively stripping the moisture and colour (if dyed) from your hair. Shampoos that are especially marketed for colour-treated hair reduces colour fading and is gentle enough not to dry out your hair and scalp.

Alternatively, you can make your own shampoo or adjust a store-bought shampoo to be less drying.

African Black Soap Shampoo 4tbsp African black soap 2tsp glycerin or honey 3tsp grape seed oil, or other oil of your choice 1cup hot boiled or bottled water Mix all ingredients in a nozzle bottle. The mixture can be refrigerated for up to two months.

Moisture-Adjusted Shampoo 1tbsp Shampoo (whatever you have) 1/2 tsp glycerin 1tsp oil of your choice 1/4 cup hot boiled or bottled water Mix all ingredients in a nozzle bottle. The mixture can be refrigerated for up to two months.

Repair Firstly, it is important to note that damaged hair can never be fully repaired. Using protein treatments or moisture-rich deep conditioning treatments can temporarily repair hair. To continually experience the bene_ ts of these repair treatments, your hair should be regularly treated since these products gradually wash off. The type of damage you experience would determine your treatment.

Dry brittle hair will be made worse with protein treatments (protein overload) whereas a deep conditioning would soften and smooth very dry hair. Ultra-_ ne hair or hair that is chemically damaged to the point of feeling limp or mushy needs protein. Also, a protein treatment two weeks before and after having a chemical process performed, aids in boosting the strength of your hair and minimising any chemical damage.

Moisturise After cleansing and repairing your hair, it is just as important that you properly seal your hair to ensure that all your TLC is not a wasted effort. With lifted cuticles, broken protein bonds and weakened areas along the length, it is necessary to apply a conditioning cr?me or oil to close off your cuticles and seal all the goodness into your hair. Fine or silky hair will only need a light oil to seal but not weigh it down. But thicker and coarser hair may require a product that is creamy or a slightly heavier oil to seal.

It is possible to have chemically treated hair with minimal damage. Once you are prepared beforehand to combat the side effects, any damage would be kept to a minimum.