110-year-old cookbook revived

Cassique Publications is back in business today with A Handbook of Trinidad Cookery.

The cookbook itself takes the reader into the kitchens of named Creole and British immigrants, living in Trinidad at the turn of the 20th century.

Indigenous foods, methods of preparation previously passed on by oral tradition and practical demonstration were penned, printed and published for the public for the first time in 1907.

It is on the bookshelves 107 years after a second reprint in 1910.

The cookbook, a Cassique Publication, researched, designed and edited by Danielle Delon, originated from the kitchens of English households in Trinidad. While those women decided what should go on their tables, no doubt the cooks were of Indian, African and in some instances Portuguese DESCENT.

The result is a medley of imported and local ingredients used along the lines of French and British and other international methods, that formed the basis of 484 recipes featured in this book.

Delon told Newsday: “I feel very privileged and fortunate to have been given the opportunity to publish this book. It is said that there is no such thing as coincidence, therefore this, I think, was un don de Dieu! [a gift of God! I was working on The Bridges of Trinidad and Tobago and went to interview the doyenne of the Bovell clan, Margaret Bovell who came to marry and live in Manzanilla at a time when ferries were used for river crossings. We frequently spoke about food. When she heard that I was the creator of the original Hi-Lo Calendar, first published in 1978, she gifted me a copy of the handbook with the understanding that I could reprint it.

There were no copies anywhere at the time that we knew of, so it was a big surprise when the existence of the manuscript was revealed to the public.” She added: “The important thing is that the integrity of the recipes has been maintained. The instructions have not been changed, only the layout.

In addition I invite readers on a 1907 full-colour tour around Trinidad in the book. We sail through the Bocas, and after landing at the St Vincent Jetty, visit popular tourist attractions and travel East to Sangre Grande then south to Mayaro and across to Cedros and the Southlands, up to the Pitch Lake and back to Port-of-Spain. I also added a glossary, and reproduced every ad that was in the original book. This is an important fact for researchers as it remains true to the content of the 1907 edition.

“I worked with every big local printer in Trinidad and Tobago in the ‘70s and ‘80s. I have printed in London, New York, Miami, Barbados and the final result of all the work, the challenges of creating beautiful artwork can be ruined at the last stage in the printing of a book.

My current printer is one of the most excellent printers in the Caribbean –Rhett Gordon– I have the greatest respect for Gordon and his staff.

I am a demanding client, but am happy to leave my work in his professional hands. He cares about standards and delivery.” A Handbook of Trinidad Cookery 1907 is the second cookbook to share recipes of West Indian cookery with the world and is therefore an important historical document. It was published 14 years after Caroline Sullivan’s The Jamaican Cookery Book (1893), which is recognised as the first published British West Indian cookbook.

This m?lange of recipes, which includes a timeless Amerindian pepperpot, mangoes pickled in mustard oil (anchar) contributed by Bhupsingh, callaloo, bobotee –today a national dish in South Africa – and the very best classic British chocolate cake, also farina, coconut and orange puddings and pommerac pie, create a mirror in which Trinidadian society of that era is reflected.

Delon said hunting game was unrestricted, so recipes with wild meats such as agouti and lappe and venison can be found in the book, as well as the use of mountain cabbage pickled, among many other unique recipes. “Endangered species are stamped with protection notices but I could not delete those recipes and readers are advised about the current regulations regarding the purchase of local wild meat in the introduction.” A Handbook of Trinidad Cookery 1907 is now available at the special price of $450 at the office of the National Trust, and retails for $495 at major bookstores RIK , Mohammeds and Paperbased in St Ann’s.

Delon said she has used some of the recipes herself, and quipped: “You will certainly find some surprises within the cover that are simple and cheap and the 11 useful hints that end the book as one of them gives instructions for A Cheap and Effective (Water) Filter.”