Helpful hints for visitors to Trinidad Carnival, 1982

The winds of change were already blowing when the CDC (2003 note: Carnival Development Committee) gave away a souvenir copy of their 1982 Silver Anniversary Programme to everyone who bought a ticket to see the Parade of the Bands. See how many changes you can spot by comparing Carnival today with these “hints for tourists” 21 years ago.

“This year being the Silver Anniversary of our Carnival Development Committee and the Tourist Board, too, and only provided you bought tickets for the Grand or North Stand to see the Parade of the Bands, you’ve already got your free anniversary Programme and guide to Trinidad Carnival 1982. Flipping through that programme you know what last year’s bands looked like, and children’s carnival, and pan-round-the-neck, but you’ve not yet seen photographs of the big, conventional steel bands or the calypsonians who write/perform the music, or ole mas — nor can you have the least idea what awaits you on jouvert morning.

You know the dates, times, places and prices of admission to shows and competitions, the addresses of mas camps and panyards and calypso tents — but there’s not one clue to tell you what those mysterious places are, whether they’re worth a visit and what it costs to see them. Before filling in the blanks for you, please note that, traditional as Trinidad Carnival is, the CDC is stretching the truth in claiming it’s “hundreds of years old”, and if you take the CDC’s word for it that “On Monday at dawn (about 5 am) JOUR OUVERT, locally known as “JOOVAY”, begins as the city awakens to join those who have been up all night in the official start of Carnival” . . .  you’ll have lost one whole hour of the festivities (2003 that began, that year, at 4 am).

So, now . . . “Mas’ camps” are where the beautiful (known here as “pretty”) costumes are made. They are usually in incredibly old, decrepit buildings so that workers appear to be camping out while they cut, sew, glue together costumes for the masquerade or mas’ (rhymes with gas). Admission is free. A tent is not a tent although it used to be many, many years ago. A tent is a public hall where calypsonians sing. The stars of the tent are likely to have a back-up chorus line of local lovelies. You won’t understand the words but the actions will tell you most of what you need to know so — be prepared. Social science students should take a crash course in the local lingo to appreciate to the full the political and social comments by serious calypsonians. Admission to the tents is NOT free.

A panyard is the home and rehearsal place of a steel band (call it an orchestra while you’re here and the panmen — i.e. steelbandsmen — will love you). Admission is free to these open-air empty lots full of pans. If you’re lucky they’ll be playing right through the piece they’re rehearsing for Panorama. If not, you’ll hear the same few bars over and over until the Captain (leader) is satisfied. Nevertheless, panyards are always worth visiting. And now we come to the “freeness” — a word that needs no explanation — when the fete officially begins at 4 am on February 22. The locals and regular visitors get into training for Carnival by going to “Jump-Ups” and “Ole Mas” fetes. Incidentally, a “Jump-Up” really does mean what it says. At some point known only to the leader of whichever band (brass or steel) is playing a popular calypso, he decides to up the tempo, that gets faster and faster until all one  can hear is “Dee-DAH, Dee-DAH, Dee-DAH” on and one and everyone on the floor literally jumps up in time to the band until the leader decides it’s time to slow down, gradually reintroducing the original tune and everyone starts “chipping” again. No, it’ll take too long to explain that one, watch what others do and copy them.

Both jump-ups and ole mas fetes are held in the open air on tennis courts and paved parking lots. Pants, preferably blue jeans, tops for women, bright coloured shirts (known as “hot shirts”) for men and soft, comfortable shoes are the sensible things to wear for these and all Carnival shows. Ole mas is the only time you’ll see people wearing masks. Men dress as women with hugely padded “bumpsies” on their rear ends and size 48-50 padded bras to match. Women dress as men and all parade in grotesque and absurd costumes improvised from old clothes. Masqueraders carry placards announcing what they’re portraying. It’s a kind of charade, often obscene, with much word play on double meanings in the local dialect. There are Ole Mas individuals and couples (usually portraying the quirks and foibles of local politicians or putting a twist on a local scandal). There are Ole Mas bands, groups of friends who get together, chose a theme and dress, carry placards and parade to illustrate it. We’d like to give you an example — but this is a family paper, so we’ll leave your hosts/friends to explain why they’re laughing until the tears run down their faces.

Individuals, couples and bands travel from fete to fete (for there are usually at least three or four each night) hoping to win a cash prize at one of another fete to pay for their food and drinks en route. Whatever you do, don’t miss Children’s Carnival. The Red Cross Kiddies’ Carnival in the Queen’s Park Savannah is a foretaste of “pretty mas’” and the Grand Parade of the Bands on Carnival Monday and Tuesday. Tiny tots have a special appeal, the teens carry large costumes like veteran masqueraders . . .”

So much for Carnival, 1982.