The Truffle Effect

And when it comes to truffles, well, let’s just say that there is a reason that some people like to call them ‘black gold’.

These elusive and outrageously priced treats have been on my radar for quite some time now. They _ rst came to my attention many years ago while on vacation in the bustling city of Madrid; a city which absolutely crackles with energy and movement, and where culinary delights abound on every corner. I remember wandering around the town centre and stumbling across market after market, chock full of delicacies from all over Spain. Savoury chorizo sausages, warm doughtnut-y churros dipped in bitter melted chocolate, nutty manchego cheese, fried calamari served on crunchy baguettes...there were just so many delicious things to try! But there, amidst all of this delicious food and the endless chatter of excited locals doing their Christmas shopping, was something that I had never seen before.

A hushed crowd had gathered around a stall selling ‘trufas’ or truffles. The star of the show had just been unveiled – it was an awkward looking, _ st sized, lumpy mushroom, resting on a velvet pillow, enclosed in a glass case. It had just been imported from Italy, we were told. The price for the truffle was written on the tag in beautiful calligraphy – one thousand Euros. Ouch. What could all the fuss be about? How could a mushroom possibly cost so much money? I had to know more.

Not to be confused with the popular chocolate confection, truffles are an extremely rare variety of wild mushroom, found mostly in the frosty mountains of France and Italy. In the culinary world, truffles are a thing of legend, surrounded by an aura of mystique and unparalleled sophistication. This may have to do with how scare truffles are and how difficult it is to _ nd them. In fact, methods for locating truffles are near medieval: truffle hunters scour the countryside with specially trained pigs and dogs to sniff out and dig up the goods.

Their wonderfully intoxicating aroma is the real reason for truffle’s elevated status and popularity in the culinary world. I’ll never forget that _ rst whiff of a truffle that I had at that truffle stand in Madrid (after having to beg the lady at the stall to indulge me, of course). It’s hard to capture a smell with paltry words, but here are a few that come to mind: earthy, complex, pungent, sweet, musty, intoxicating, ambrosial, and unforgettable. In the culinary world, it is considered a sacrilege of the highest degree to expose a truffle to high heat as this would kill this prized smell.

Though I am yet to try even a sliver of a real, fresh truffle, I am thankful that I was able to _ nd a temporary solution to my truffle less existence here in Trinidad. One of my all time favourite speciality food stores here in Trinidad is ‘All Italian’, a speciality Italian food and wine store located on Rust Street in Port of Spain. For the true gourmand, a visit to All Italian is always an exciting and stimulating experience. The last time that I visited the store, Francesca, the lovely and extremely helpful Italian born owner, proudly showed my her latest addition – an entire shelf laden with truffle based products imported from Italy! Although not exactly the same as a fresh truffle, truffled products such as truffle _ avoured oils, sauces, and condiments can be used to infuse any dish with a hint of luxury (without breaking the bank!) I highly recommend checking out the store if, like me, you are crazy for that heady truffle aroma. These days, I’ve been using a small vial of truffle oil and black truffle sauce to spice up my cooking with amazing results. Perhaps, one day I will know the joy of a fresh shaving of truffles, but, until then, I am grateful that I can enjoy these delicious and affordable truffle products. Now, please keep in mind that this doesn’t mean that I have abandoned my quest to experience fresh shavings of truffles. For what, after all, is a life without dreams? So if any fans of this column with access to the cherished product (restaurateurs, chefs, amateur truffle hunters?) would like to indulge this island food writer in one of his greatest culinary fantasies, then I urge you to contact the WMN. Please give them my full name and tell them that you would like to send me a truffle. I promise to give you a good write-up.

Hey...

A boy can dream, right?