Growing beautiful cacti, succulents

I started my collection with two tiny succulents whose leaf colour, shape and form captivated me, as well as the plants’ ability to survive for long periods without water and still look stunning. I find both cacti and succulents easier to grow and to be considerably less demanding than foliage plants, requiring less frequent fertilization and general maintenance. However, I must confess that my love for cacti has since surpassed that of the softer leaved succulents.

Both cacti and succulents can withstand periods of drought and that is the main reason that I am so enthralled by them. They are the perfect plants for the dry season, during which time WASA may impose water restrictions and in addition, I can leave the country and not have to concern myself with asking anyone to water the plants while resting assured that I will find them in good condition upon my return.

Soil/ Plant Medium Cacti require a special medium to promote optimum growth. They need loose soil that provides quick drainage, thereby preventing the plants’ roots from sitting in moisture for long periods, which can lead to rot. I use a mixture of peat moss, commonly referred to as “promix”, and sharp sand.

I prefer to use peat moss instead of regular garden soil as part of my soil mixture for 3 simple reasons- it does not contain weed seeds, it is light and airy which facilitates free movement of roots, and it has some perlite which aids drainage.

However, the presence of too much peat in your mix will eventually form a cake around the root ball of your plants which does not encourage healthy roots and prevents the plants from absorbing water adequately through their roots. I have observed over the years that some soil mixes work better for some varieties than others.

cacti continues on It may become necessary to mix “special batches” by adding more sharp sand and/ or additional perlite for certain varieties because of the differences in water tolerance between different species.

Organic matter like manure or compost should be avoided because of their high nitrogen content which undoubtedly cause accelerated growth thereby negatively altering the form and shape of the plants.

I has been said that if water is still pooling on the surface of the growing medium 15 seconds after watering then this is an indicator that the soil is not loose enough.

There seems to be a myth that cacti need very little water.

While this may be sufficient for their survival in the short term, cacti and succulents need to be given a good drink, that is, until water runs out of the drainage hole(s) and then watered again when the soil is completely dry, if they are to thrive.

While over watering is probably the most common cause of death, under watering can also send your treasures to the plant graveyard.

I typically water most of my cacti and succulents once every seven to 14 days during the drier months, and I do so less frequently during the rainy season when the air is moist and the soil takes longer to dry out. Sometimes I intentionally prolong the periods that my plants go without water, thereby creating an artificial drought in an effort to “stress” my succulents to bring about changes in the colour of their leaves, and to encourage my cacti to bloom.

Other factors that influence my plants’ watering needs include the type of plant, if recently transplanted, the amount of sun exposure, pot material, size or depth of the pot, the presence of top dressing, and if the plant is potbound.

It goes without saying that the soil in small pots dry out faster than the soil in a larger or deeper pot.

Additionally, plants that are in clay pots will require more frequent watering than plants in plastic or ceramic the pots for the simple reason that clay pots are porous.

Some varieties tolerate more frequent watering than others.

Aloes and agaves can be very forgiving if watered frequently whereas jades and the “white spine cactus varieties” will not be so kind and they will easily turn to mush.

My suggestion is that you use the “once per week” as a rule of thumb but that you give the soil sufficient time to dry out between scheduled waterings.

In the absence of an actual moisture meter, and because my eyes can deceive me, I do the “moisture test” by sticking my index finger in the pot, I may rub some soil between my index and thumb because I absolutely love how it feels.

Rainwater, in my humble opinion, is magical. Just as rainwater gives immediate life to a dying lawn, it is beneficial to cacti and succulents and they seemingly love it. Rainwater, though acidic, is purer than tap water and is less harsh on plants. I usually collect rainwater to water the plants in my collection and sometimes I put the larger specimens in my collection out in the yard when there is a heavy downpour.

I do believe that they appreciate my efforts.

I hope that these tips prove to be helpful.

Happy gardening.

For further information contact the Eastern Horticultural Club at 357-5033 or 720-2698 or easternhorticultural@ hotmail.com. The club meets on the first Saturday of every month (except public holidays) at 3 pm at Moreton Hall, Aramalaya Presbyterian Church, Cochrane Street, Tunapuna