What relaxers are made of

MANUFACTURERS today have brought us full circle with all the new developments in chemical hair relaxers. You may recall the days when relaxers caused severe burning on instant application to your hair and scalp and you were left in pain for several days. This caused many persons who wanted to have their hair relaxed, to dread the visit to the salon. Those were the days. Today, relaxers come in different strengths and formulae and one can choose according to hair and scalp needs. I mention scalp, since scalp is just as important to hair growth as the type and strength of relaxer used on your hair. So today let us give some character to that mixture of chemicals that we call relaxers.

There are three categories of chemical relaxers:

•Thioglycolate •Acid •Hydroxide.
They are all designed to alter the natural curl pattern in the hair shaft. Ammonia Thioglycolate or “thio” relaxer is very popular and carries the active ingredient  thioglycollic acid as permanent wave solutions. It is a reducing agent and is typically combined with ammonia to increase the PH of the cream or lotion. In its chemical reaction it softens the cuticle layer to gain entry into the cortex where all chemical changes take place. Once inside, these chemicals rapidly reduce the bonds in the hair making the hair smooth. If these chemical activities are combined with wrapping the hair around rollers, a new physical/chemical shape is formed in the hair. This is called a curly perm. If this is not the desired look, once the hair gets soft and smooth an oxidising solution must be used to hold the hair in the new position.

In addition, a moisturising agent must be used continuously to keep the hair shaft healthy. Without this moisture the hair will break. We now find that manufacturers are adding heavy conditioners and neutralising lotion to the Thio type relaxer. It is noted that straight hair is round in shape while curly hair is oval and kinky hair is flat. Straight and curly hair do not require as much maintenance as kinky hair to remain healthy because of the diameter of the hair. Acid type relaxers work similar to Thio but use different active ingredients called Exothermic — “ex” means outside while “therm” means heat. The two products are combined to allow the heat to gain entry to the cortex, creating chemical changes within the hair shaft. I will look at  hydroxides next week.

How often to retouch hair?

Q: How often should I retouch my hair after a relaxer?

Answer: About six to eight  weeks after, since there will be some new hair growth. The point at which the new hair growth meets the previously relaxed hair is referred to as the demarcation line and is extremely sensitive to tension and heat. When you retouch it will balance the opposing hair texture relieving the tension between virgin hair and relaxed hair. This will minimise breakage.

Germaine Williams-Beckles is a qualified trichologist. If you have concerns about your hair or scalp send queries to news@newsday.co.tt or call 625-6774.