Eyeshadow Do’s & Don’ts

DO: Prime your eyes Eyeshadow primer will minimise creasing and allow your colours to show up true and vibrant. You can also apply a concealer or foundation over your primer to cancel out any discolouration, so you will have an even canvas to work on.

DON’T: Pull the eye taut to apply eyeshadow or eyeliner This can cause wrinkles in the long run. It also distorts the shape of your eye, so when you let go, you might be left with a very different result than you expected.

DO: Set your eyeshadow base Set your base with a translucent powder, a skin coloured eyeshadow or even your powder foundation. It will create a matte canvas, even out any discolouration and allow eyeshadows to blend smoothly. If you try to blend eyeshadow over a tacky base, it will grab onto certain areas and skip, leaving you with patchiness.

DON’T: Apply shimmer past the crease of the eye This will accentuate texture. It can also make your eyes look swollen and creepy. Instead, keep shimmer under the crease and on the eyelid.

DO: Apply transition colours to help with blending Transition colours are applied above your crease, and are generally lighter than your crease colour but deeper than your skin. They help to create a soft, seamless blend. You can use bronzer, face powder that’s too dark or any eyeshadow as a transition colour.

DON’T: Apply your crease colour too high This will distort the shape of your eyes and make them look sunken in. Instead use a smaller domed brush to apply colour to the crease of your eyes. The crease is just above your eyelid; with your finger, feel your orbital bone, or where your eye socket sinks in.

You can then use a larger brush to blend it out to soften the look. Remember to start small because blending will spread the colour.

DO: Use a fl uffy brush to blend Fluffy brushes work best for blending and giving you a soft, diffused look. You blend by moving your brush backwards and forwards, in “windshield wiper” motions.

Dense brushes work best for applying colour. Using a stiff or dense brush to blend will make the colour too concentrated and can leave you looking patchy.

Likewise, don’t use a fluffy brush to apply colour if you need it to be concentrated or vibrant, such as on the eyelid. It will not be opaque and pigment will fly everywhere, leaving you with a lot of fallout.

DON’T: Start with dark colours Starting with dark colours will make everything appear muddy. I recommend starting with the lightest colour and adding the darkest last. It’s much easier to build your dark colours gradually. You can always add more, but it will be much harder to take it away.

DO: Tap excess eyeshadow off your brush before applying If you load up your brush and apply it straight to your eyes, you’ll be left with a big mess when the excess eyeshadow falls all over your face.

DON’T: Overuse light or frosty eyeshadow If you apply frosty eyeshadow under your eyes, it can make your eyes look tired and swollen by accentuating any fine lines. Likewise, if you use light, frosty eyeshadow on the brow bone, you will draw attention to that area, creating the illusion that it is protruding. Opt for a matte or satin finish, and a colour that is slightly lighter than your skin tone for a softer effect. Keep the colour just under the arch of the eyebrow instead of applying it from the front of the brow to the tail.

DO: Hold your brush further back on the handle to make blending a breeze Doing this will help you to get a softer application. If you hold your brush too close to the bristles, it will give you too much control and thus, a harsher application.

DON’T: Blend eyeshadows too far under the eye If you smoke black eyeshadow too far under the eye, you will give yourself the dreaded “raccoon eyes.” Likewise, if you apply colour below the lash line on the outer part of your eyes, you will make your eyes look droopy and sad. Keep your eyeshadow lifted for a youthful, fresh effect.

DO: Make your lid colour pop Apply a concealer that is three to four shades lighter than your skin tone to the area you want to apply eyeshadow only. Immediately after, press on your eyeshadow with a flat, dense brush. This is especially great for those with deeper skin tones, who struggle with getting their colours to show up. You can also use your eyeshadow on a dampened brush to get the prettiest finish from metallic eyeshadows.

DON’T: Apply glitter without an adhesive If you don’t use an adhesive, glitter will move and fall onto your face throughout the day. A glitter adhesive will secure those pesky shimmer particles so you’ll be sparkling from sun up to sun down!