How relaxers affect your hair

Last week I discussed chemicals that can cause hair loss and hair breakage if they are used incorrectly.

These chemicals come in the form of relaxers, softeners or straighteners. They all cause changes to the hair and can also cause changes to the scalp/skin.

Today, relaxers come in different strengths and formulae and one can choose according to hair and scalp needs. I mention scalp, since scalp is just as important to hair growth as the type and strength of relaxer used on your hair. So today let us consider the mixture of chemicals that we call relaxers, straighteners or softeners.

There are three categories of chemical hair relaxers: Thioglycolate Acid Hydroxide They are all designed to alter the natural curl pattern in the hair shaft. Ammonia thioglycolate or “thio” relaxers are very popular and carry the active ingredient, thioglycollic acid, as permanent wave solutions. It is a reducing agent and is typically combined with ammonia to increase the pH of the cream or lotion. In its chemical reaction it softens the cuticle layer to gain entry into the cortex where all chemical changes take place. Once inside, these chemicals rapidly reduce the bonds in the hair making the hair smooth. These chemical activities are combined with wrapping the hair around rollers.

After a few minutes, a new physical /chemical shape is formed in the hair shaft, an oxidising solution (which is called a neutraliser) must be used to hold the hair shaft in the new found position.

This is called a curly perm. In addition, a moisturising agent must be used continuously to keep the hair shaft healthy. Without this moisture the hair will become dry and brittle.

Now manufacturers are adding heavier conditioners in the creams and lotions to protect the hair from drying and breaking when applying a thio type relaxer.

You must note that straight hair is round in shape while curly hair is oval and kinky hair is flat and light.

Take for example, a decorative ribbon, each time you run a scissors along the ribbon, it creates a demarcation on the ribbon, that causes it to become curly.

This is similar to the kinky hair. Each time it turns, there is a demarcation line, which causes the hair to be weaker than straight hair. Straight and curly hair do not require as much maintenance as kinky hair to remain healthy because of the diameter of the hair shaft.

Acid-type relaxers work similar to thio but use different active ingredients called exothermic.

“Ex” means outside while “therm” means heat. The two products are combined to allow the heat to gain entry to the cortex, creating chemical changes within the hair shaft.

The epidermis is the top layer you see when you look at the skin. There are four to five layers. During a relaxing process, the stratum corneum – which is the first layer – can be stripped away causing damage to the scalp/skin.

The scalp must be protected for this not to take place. When a relaxer is applied to the hair shaft, there is no way that it will only stay on the hair shaft.

Based on the body’s temperature, the heat will cause the product to seep into your hair follicle. This can cause irritation or burns, dermatitis and ultimately hair loss.

The next time you have a relaxer done, ensure that your scalp is protected. Next week we will continue the dialogue on hydroxides in relaxers, which is another main contributor to hair loss.

Germaine Williams- Beckles is a Doctor of Trichology (DT) http://www.geesexclusive.

com 1-868-627-4659 or email us your questions at queries@geesexclusive.

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