How relaxers became a $M-business

As slavery gradually caused the disintegration of African culture, it also eliminated the richness and beauty of tribal hair styling. As a result, African-oriented people were convinced that natural hairstyles were not beautiful and several methods of straightening kinky hair were developed.

Among the methods adopted were wrapping and twisting. This resulted in severe hair loss. Then there were attempts to straighten hair with a mixture of mashed potatoes, lye and oil. These were primitive times for the hair care industry.

Don’t you think? Two women, Madam C J Walker and Madam Malone, laid the foundation for today’s styling services.

They are responsible for some of the methods used up to today to soften or relax hair.

Although not much is known about Madam Malone, we know that Madam Walker created the straightening or iron comb that was used in straightening or pressing hair. This innovation paved the road to success that made her the first selfmade African American female millionaire.

Relaxers progressed over the years and chemical improvements made them kinder to the hair and scalp and more effective in reducing the natural curl or kink.

In the 1920’s, hair products designed for coarse, surly textured hair were scarce or non-existent. At that time, lye was the main ingredient used. The harshness of lye caused significant damage to hair and scalp, thus limiting its popularity.

Eventually other products, which act as conditioners or buffers, were added to the lye. The most popular of these is petroleum.

By the early 1940s, lye relaxers had grown in popularity but they were used mainly by men (yes men) in the entertainment industry, athletes and other influential African- American men of the time.

You may have seen pictures of Nat King Cole, Duke Ellington, Sammy Davis Jr and others with their relaxed hair.

Hair relaxers became popular among African- American women in the late 1940s and entered the mainstream market about ten years later.

The person who first introduced and marketed the chemical hair relaxer as a professional product is George Johnson.

He was a chemist of African-American descent who, in the early 1950s, was employed by Fuller Brush Products. He left Fullers in 1954 and developed his own product line under Johnson’s Products Inc.

This included relaxers to be sold directly to cosmetologists. Fifteen years later, 1969, the company achieved a million dollars in sales and by 1971, it was the first African-American company to be listed on a major stock exchange.

Manufactures today have brought us full circle with all the new developments in chemical hair relaxers.

You may recall the days when relaxers caused severe burning on instant application to your hair and scalp and you were left in pain for several days.

This caused many people who wanted to have their hair relaxed, to dread the visit to the salon. Those were the days. Nowadays we recommend “retouch” every five to eight weeks according to the hair texture, since there will be some new hair growth. The point at which the new hair growth meets the previously relaxed hair is referred to as the demarcation line and is extremely sensitive to tension and heat.

When you retouch it will balance the opposing hair texture relieving the tension between virgin hair and relaxed hair. This will minimise breakage.

Now you know the history of hair relaxers and how it became a multi-million dollar business.

Next week we will discuss categories of relaxers – thioglycolates, acids and hydroxides.

We will also discuss who or what is being relaxed – you or your hair. This will be very interesting – keep on reading.

Germaine Williams- Beckles is a Doctor of Trichology (DT) http://www.geesexclusive.

com, 1-868-627- 4659 or email us your questions at queries@ geesexclusive.com